Qadisha Valley – some impressions

Fresh air – this was probably my first impression when we stepped out of the Bus on the 15th of November and entered the Qadisha Valley in the north of Lebanon. After a few minutes, our guide Father Elie Ázzi was leading the group, we reached a beautiful viewpoint and when I stood next to the edge to breath some fresh air I was just overwhelmed by the fascinating nature.

The Qadisha river, which runs through this gorgeous valley, indeed formed the past, but only if you take a closer look on the surrounding landscape, you will see the human fingerprints and you will recognize the eventfully history beyond. Since the early centuries of Christianity the Valley has served as a refuge for those in search of protection and freedom. Early Christians fled persecution and found refuge in the mountains of Lebanon. Those people built simple houses, constructed terraced fields for growing fruits and vegetables and later on the Maronites built even big monasteries amidst this rough mountains. During the hike through this picturesque scenery I was asking myself how the people could survive? All the difficulties are hardly imaginable in dealing with the daily needs, the constant worry about persecution and the attempt to protect the family, the community and the personal faith. Indeed, it is a deep expression of religion and a testimony of Christianity.

This powerful surrender and denomination to god is manifested in a certain way through the hermit who is living by his own in one of the monasteries. The old priest was praying during our visit, his personal aim to be in this world as a hermit might be perplexing, especially in our modern, highly-technologist and affluent society. But in a sense we could compare his spiritual journey with the quest of the humankind in general, even though the individual reasons and aims are different, we are looking for something deeper, something that is beyond economy richness. However we call it, it should be based on internal belief as well as on respect and tolerance according to the “other”.

The history of Lebanon and the relation between the religious communities in particular is unfortunately no good example where these moral values have been borne in mind. The statement of Elie Ázzi about the Qadisha river – which means “holy” in Aramaic – is called Nahr Abu Ali when it reaches Tripoli, is just one evidence for the ongoing tensions and the agenda to claim the absoluteness.

The “Holy Valley” is still a destination for different individuals; some of them are seeking for solitude, some are searching for God, like the hermit, some of them just come for a hike and some of them might figure out something about there own history or rather search for identity. May the Qadisha valley, with all these stunning monasteries, the hidden divine sights and in stone-eternalized history appear as witness. A mirror, to raise consciousness that we should never force people to hide, to stoke fears and kill people cause they believe different – under no circumstances. Rather, the Valley could be a source for entire Lebanon, to open the magnificence of the country to foreigners and to construct a common culture where religion is still a part of identity, but not determining all of the identity.

by Thomas Schönberger